Wednesday, November 14, 2012

New Haven to Boston, Part 8 of 8


POST ROAD HISTORY
The original Post Road went through Hartford, Springfield and Worcester MA, and into Boston.
The “Post Road” originally went from New Haven to Hartford. [Long list I wrote down of the order of towns on the three separate Post Road paths- the ‘Lower’, ‘Middle’, and ‘Upper’.]

[Sketch of 1775 map of Boston environs: the “Shawmut Peninsula”, significance of the landmass. “Boston Neck” –Orange St—is the connection to the mainland.] Puritans settled on the peninsula for the excellent spring water. (Springs where the Old State House and King’s Chapel stand today.)


The main library. Busts with the irises dug out. Beautiful reading room with hunching green lamps all down its length, vaulted ceiling. At the old reading tables, a vinegar smell in the skin-oils trapped in the wood. A graceful place to be, high in the air above the city streets, looking out onto a courtyard, the smell of books.
1620- The Mayflower lands at Plymouth. Governor John Carver.
The Royal Governor of New York during the time of the first mail carrier was Francis Lovelace, and he designated that the mail delivery operation be carried out. (John Winthrop was the governor in Connecticut at this time.) The idea of a royal mail-carrying route actually belonged to King Charles II.
The first mail in America was dispatched from NYC on Jan 22, 1673, and appeared in Boston on or about February 5th. (I find the spot where the mail arrives, the old newspaper building). The mail would have been dispatched on Jan 1, but the unknown rider was held up waiting for dispatches from Albany, New York. Lovelace stipulated that the rider should be “a stout fellow, active and indefatigable, and sworn as to his fidelity.” (He went by way of Hartford.) Pequot Indians made travel dangerous through these forested reaches. Shortly after the rider’s journey, the mail was forced to stop for 2 years on account of King Philip’s War. Nov. 5, 1639: Order of the General Court of Mass.
“Richard Fairbanks his House in  Boston” Site of the old Globe office.

--I think of Iraq. Who is excited for Iraq’s threshold of ‘Liberty’? Last night, Bush announced the “surge”: 21,500 more troops in Iraq, for starters.
--What’s “the news”? What’s truly new? What transpires. Qui transtulit. Qui sustinet. (‘Novels give us the news.’ About how we live.)

January 6, 1868: despite great protest by Roxbury residents, Roxbury is annexed to Boston. (Like Brooklyn to NYC: date??)
Capt. Nathaniel Urig, visiting Boston in 1710: “The Neck of Land betwixt the city and country is about forty yards broad, and so low that the spring tides sometimes wash the road, which might, with little charge, be made so strong as not to be forced, there being no way of coming at [Boston] by land but over the Neck.” (Travel can be a bitch.)



**
I walk around Boston past nightfall, eventually I go wait in a diner for the first Amtrak train of the morning, back to New Haven.
Nice to be in a big city, a wintery one. Boston seal: ‘SICUT PATRIBUS SIT DEUS NOBIS’. I’m wearing the Ace bandage as tight as it will go and taking pain relievers, but it seems like a good night’s sleep took all the little points of ache out of my back.
The map kiosks around downtown are printed with the motto: “BOSTON: America’s Walking City”.
Across the Charles: the obelisk commemorating the Battle of Bunker Hill, June 17, 1775. The patriot army of irregulars ran out of ammo defending the hill, but it was a courageous stand and very costly for the British.

(At 12:30pm I start the walk from the outskirts back into Boston.) Forest Hills: ‘You are at the transportation center of the streetcar suburbs.’
In the 1630s Puritan settlers arrived in this area, and they constructed the toll road from Roxbury to Dedham.
-The SMELLS when you move to different terrain.
-The cool earthiness of Rhode Island.
-The particular chemical cocktail as you approach Boston.
-The gentle complexity of downtown: smells of human grease and street grit.

Jamaica Plain: graffitti-style ads for real products, like Axe Deodorant. New, quaint, small-scale housing projects.
John F. Eliot Square: (b. 1604, d. 1690)
“On this hill the Puritans in Roxbury built their first meetinghouse, in 1632.” Eliot was known as ‘Apostle to the Indians’: in 1663 he translated the entire Bible into Massachussetts Algonquin (the language of the people of Neponset).He was the second minister of the First Church in Roxbury. (Seems like a fascinating story, converting Indians. How did he approach the philosophical problems of holy writ translation?)

April 18, 1775: William Dawes sets out from the Meeting House Hill Common, riding to Lexington and Concord, at the same time Paul Revere was riding from Charlestown. This Town Common was occupied by patriots as part of the defense of Boston. The grand 1804 church now standing on this common is the fifth one to occupy this spot. It had been one of only three churches in Puritan Massachussetts to admit Indians as members. Speaking of converts: Near the Common, Washington Square intersects El-Hajj Malike El-Shabazz Boulevard. As a teenager, Malcolm X lived in the Dudley neighborhood of Roxbury. He made the pilgrimage to Mecca in 1964. There are beautiful, decayed 19th century buildings boarded up here. It’s a distinctively black shopping thoroughfare. I’ve been seeing the spines of churches and other large buildings on the horizon way out to the east.

A big ‘T’ distaster happened the day before I arrived. Human error. Several crewmen were killed. –In the ‘Chinatown’ area the streets have New York City streetnames. (There was some reason for this.) The information kiosks all have big graphics that say “BOSTON: America’s Walking City”.

In the late 1700s, Revolutionary War patriots began to settle along Washington Street south of what is now East Berkeley Street. (Recall: in July 1824 the single avenue of Washington was consitituted out of all the main boulevards.)
1801: Charles Bulfinch lays out the streetplan for the South End. (George Washington had recently made a tour through the area.) This region was built-up in the mid-19th century. In the 1830s-1850s, the city filled in the tidal flats on either side of the peninsular neck. These flats were full of oysters, and the oysters were used for paving. In the 1870s, with the rise of the streetcar, most of the well-to-do left this area and moved to the Back Bay. An immigrant population moved in here. By 1855, there were 55,000 Irish in Boston, because of the famine. In the 60s, yuppies took over the old Victorian houses.

ULTRA DIAMONDS
-Thriving 2-story Borders  across the street from the old Ticknor and Fields. The Borders has just ousted a Barnes and Noble, as if to provide here a perfect concrete example of the banality of ‘alternatives’ and ‘choice’ offered by modern chain retailers.

Spring Lane. [Sketch of The Old South Meeting House; Old State House.]
“Rich’d Fairbanks, his house in Boston is the place appointed for all the letters and hee is to take care that they bee delivered or sent according to their directions.” Order of the General Court, November 5, 1639. This plaque, by the original site of the Globe office, was placed in 1924.

The Old State House: the Declaration of Independence was read from the east balcony on July 18th. 

I watch junior high hockey pregame warm-up at Sterrit Rink (Suffolk University). It’s Winthrop vs. Revere, very Boston school names. The hockey action is pretty cool to see this close up, the swerves on the ice.

Community roundtable meeting (tenant association?) visible from the ground-floor window of a building in the Concord Housing Projects; there’s Dunkin Donuts pastries and coffee in the middle of the table.

“The largest solar system model east of Peoria, Illinois” is distributed through the malls and public buildings of Boston and its suburbs, Newton, Cambridge, Jamaica Plain. The Sun is located in the Hayden Planetarium. Here in the food court at South Street Station, on a pedestal, is the model of Jupiter, in textured bronze showing its bands of cloud in relief. It’s about one and a half feet in diameter. “Visit all 9 planets and experience the awesome vastness of space!” I like this. Note: the giant planets orbiting the sun farther out from Earth protected the fragile blossoming of life, because they attracted away the giant intergalactic debris that could have smothered, knocked around, disrupted Earth.

12 am, 40 degrees, I’m wandering the south half of the Freedom Trail. The first skyscraper in Boston is the 1911 tower addition on top of the 1847 Greek Revival Customs House on State Street. Today, the clock up there is lit colorfully.

Winthrop’s daughter Ann (Pollard) was ten years old when she came over with him. They landed near Prince Street. She later described the landing site as having been “very uneven, abounding in small hollows and swamps, covered with blueberries and other bushes.”

The old South Street Diner: the only place downtown to eat late at night, it seems. A young waitress with a black and white tattoo up the inside of her pale left arm. “It’s an octopus strangling a swan. …It’s…I have this whole thing,” she tells me. I play ‘Going Back to Cali’ by B.I.G. on the jukebox at my right, as I eat my eggs, toast and coffee.

I take the 6:05 (Amtrak #95) back to New Haven, but I’m asleep for the ride and the sunrise, even with the cup of coffee on the floor by my feet. Shooting pain in my knee makes it hard to get into a good position to rest in.
MIGRATING: I get a thrill whenever I see a backpacker wandering in the city, in the subway, or crouching in a train station or on the train next to their gear, opening a book, face sharpened and eyes slightly fuzzy with the effort of the day’s forward motion. I’m ready to plunge right back into a book again, a book about walking forward where I can walk forward vicariously. (There’s always somebody somewhere stomping toward the horizon.) Over the landbridge from Siberia into the New World, following game herds and heartsickness or religious mystery.

**End

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