Wednesday, November 14, 2012

New Haven to Boston, Part 5

-->
Back before, in the beginning, the ‘New World’—they didn’t have even a culture, only the CONGREGATIONAL Church and its earnest prescriptions for civil society. In time, these people acquired neighbors. They were eventually able to move freely in a whole network of Connecticut towns, seeking jobs, spouses, trade, education.

**
Yellow spartina, in the little Lieutenant River. By the road, one half of a metal scissors. “LAX” bumper sticker on a white Chevy Tahoe.

A brook in a backyard. The people in these homes can live with nature in harmony no more than with a good white wine: they must lay it up in order to quaff it at their leisure, cycling through it expensively as they go about life’s business.

KAFKA’S ECSTASY: The ecstasy of the desk. Exhilaration of continuing at your desk-work.
The road follows the riverbank north. The gassy smell of leaves rotting, trees in shallow swampwater. Griswold Preserve in Old Lyme. IN THE FOREST IN JANUARY. It’s unusually sunny. I walk through whole hillside developments around Jericho Drive. There are excavators parked in cleared plots of mud.
Wood fence in front of a beautiful private lake.
“Do you enjoy annoying all the neighbors or just us –A handwritten sign affixed with masking tape to the fence, facing the road.

It’s going to rain overnight tonight. So: ?
So quiet in the highland hills. Obvious suddenly: Why am I so ANGRY? At everyone who has judged me, on the general criteria, without reservation, without questioning the criteria; as a transparent failure. A misguided half-person. –Without even considering, What is the origin or societal function of the judgment. Remember to think of EVERYONE, the very best.

[Did people really judge me, or was I just depressed and imbalanced enough to believe this.]

The colonists would be very afraid of the hilly terrain away from the shore and riverbank. People didn’t move up here to these forest homes until the late twentieth century. Thinking of the real thing, kids like my old friend B, one’s scorn and pity and shame. Everyone who wants to get up an argument, between our different respective choices. Makes my own work so much harder—(the belief in an undivided world of intentions!) the enemy—the opponent—the demarcation—the blood-drinking ego.

Just past the East Lyme border, a shuttered roadside bar for sale by owner. [Sketch: lichenous brownstone milepost, 10 MILES to New London]

A glorious day for all the multicolored spandex bikeriders to be out. Two men, one woman resting at an intersection, one man says, “You know, I don’t mind that we did this instead of mountain biking today.”

(Indian grocery: ‘Please don’t go behind there, that’s Indian groceries’. Warning me off.)
Orange sweater guy at credit union reaching out car window to use the drive-through ATM, puffing on the curved stem of a pipe.
3:15pm: I FIND THE PLASTIC ALLIGATOR, “Taber”.  The highway sweeps above 95. I remember losing a toy in the Sound, and my mother telling me it would be swept out to China. Because I stop to pick up the tiny plastic alligator, I notice the six-person cemetery next to the highway here.
A single length of cold rebar rings the overgrown grounds. I step through the pricker bushes and clear away the grass and dirt from one of the horizontal tablets. I read the weathered inscription: In memory of Samuel Taber, who died January 6th, 1813, in his 39th year. (That was yesterday!) [See sketch] In Memory of Mr. Samuel Taber Junr, who died Septr 6th, 1798.

One would wish to know why there is no Nobel Prize for needlepoint. [This sounds like a quotation but I don’t remember from whom or why I was moved to record it.]
Stout young guy with red-outline tattoo of the Raymond Pettibon Black Flag logo on his right tricep. He tells me there’s no bathroom at this gas station, but I can pee out back. In the gas station: much heated debate over Tony Romo’s critical fumble.
Lacrosse is big in this region. The sign for youth lacrosse in East Lyme: the decayed netting of a stick, affixed to a post at an intersection. It looks like a Joseph Beuys sculpture.

“CONGAHAVATH CHESED” Jewish Cemetery. I spot graves from 1926. I place a rock on the memorial of an Army private; there’s already a bucket of rocks and an American flag there. Some of the headstones give the Jewish date:
“LUBCHANSKY: Sep 2 1950/ Elul 20, 5710”

Route 1 at night: neon signs. (But by day it’s picturesque.) In Waterford, I can still pick up a New York City tabloid newspaper, but I can also eat at a Tim Horton’s, which is right down the street from a Starbucks.
NEW LONDON: Established 1646. A car parked behind a multi-family home is bumping reggaeton; migrants part of the economy here. A pair of Jehovah’s Witnesses walking their bicycles up the hill of Beckwith Street. Here in New England, liquor stores are called “packies”, and I pass a business actually called “The Packy”. I make my way down the hill, toward the lights of downtown New London.
5:53pm, 39 degrees.
The US Customs House/Maritime Museum: There’s an inscribed cement placque out front about the first US trial where a slave got his legal freedom. During the proceedings: “’Do you want to be slave or free?’ The slave replied, ‘Free!’”—Note: Enslaved by my own cynical depression, I interpret this dialogue as Beckettian tragedy.
Little whales everywhere here, like picaninnies in the Deep South. A bar with $1 PBR. The home of CT’s first newspaper press: a gorgeous space being refurbished to house a bar. I-95 over the Thames River. A shredded diaper on the shoulder. Nothing to do about it now: I’ve committed myself to walking across this dangerous bridge. (I-95 melds briefly here into Route 1.) Groton obelisk?

A state cop on the Groton line on the bridge flashes his lights behind me. A very thorough frisking (my crotch), he gives me a ride across the river. He drives surreally fast. We whip off the exit. I brace myself for carnage and death.
“Do you think your laptop could take a bullet?” I ask.
“Ha. It’s a tough book,” he replies. The thing looks like it could burn you a DVD out of recycled plastic bottles. “Don’t walk across bridges no more,” the state trooper says. He must have discovered my incident with the state trooper in Old Saybrook!
The night still holding clear.
10pm. MYSTIC 5 MILES (regular road sign).

Shopping cart on the rocks at Trout Hole Brook.
Highways wend past ancient, incidental cemetery plots. Scattered soft rain begins, lightly tapping the fallen leaves.
11pm: Mystic Historic Downtown. Settled 1645. (The year before New London) The huge white Baptist church lit up. Glow from within the high arched columns. The name of the town is supposedly derived from a Mohegan phrase--“great tidal river”.

AVALONIA: A beautiful paradise of spartina reaching way out along the road. Nature preserve.

1649: First settlement of Stonington. (Again, Seye-Brook was 1635.) Lichenous green trees in a watery area: a river or brook. It’s raining. I have to stay at a motel. I can’t sleep under this rain, even in the shelter of a tree with the moisture running all over my coat. The rain is in my eyelashes and I’m chilled to the bone. (I stay the night and watch ESPN in my cold bed. Blow out the hairdryer trying to get my socks and shirt dry. There’s a story on about the footballer who played right through with the bleeding broken leg, and that gives me courage. Stupid courage, perhaps.)

PAWCATUCK. The next day. I get a bite to eat and coffee at Tim Horton’s, down the road from the motel. “Mechanic Street Historic District has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the US Department of the Interior.” There’s a sign up in the window of the chiropractor’s office: “We accept Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Insurance”. Route 1 goes through a pretty, vintage old downtown here. There’s a new sunset. A sign on the other end of a road bridge across the high, flush river, within the same downtown:
“WELCOME TO WESTBURY”, incorporated 1669. Half of this downtown lies in Westbury, Rhode Island. “Pawcatuck River: Mentioned as the western Boundary of Rhode Island in the Charter of 1663”. Big old red brick buildings wall off the north bank of the river. I look in on some newspaper employees, they’re leaning over their desks and trying to wrap up an edition of the WESTERLY SUN. (The office is a historical site.)
4:53pm. 48 degrees. “Victorian Strolling Park” behind the grand romanesque terra-cotta library. (There’s a phone number for a room to rent, I write it down.)
To travel to Block Island, you can take a ferry from here, or you can fly from Westerly Airport.

I get onto Route 1A (scenic diversion) in the town of Cross Mills. There’s a little cemetery. 1A is quieter, although not far from the main highway.

1:38 am, Kingson, RI: “I can’t stop ya.” RI State Trooper lets me go, gives me a cynical lecture about how I’ll be run down in the dark by an automobile. I show her my passport. Against the chill night wind, I  attempt to project composure and gravamen. The highway comes out of the woods. Marina. Galilee State Beaches. Still dark. There’s a lighter blue in the sky ahead. The stars that way are fainter. I’m hungry.
“Wow. It’s actually only 1am. No wonder I’m not sleepy.” To 1A, scenic route further east toward coast. I see a fox dart across the highway.

1:36 am. 37 degrees. Some wind.
Around 2am a tall local cop, South Kingston PD?, stops me, and he wants to know where I live. “You come to Rhode Island to walk around at night?” I’m pissy and I get a little standoffish with the cop, I chew my gum. I’m in a bad mood now, and it lasts until I get to the beach. The breakers rolling in from the bay, tide in from the Atlantic. The state’s archipelagic web shines from darkness as an array of more or less distant lights on the horizon. North up the coast, I can see the twinkling span of the Newport-Verrazano Bridge. Far off on the dark horizon the points of lighthouses appear and disappear.

Cops: My race (white), as well as certain class cues I’m aware of deploying (“Yes, officer, this gentleman spoke to me”). The road wends up a stately hillside, the black bay spreads out below to my right.

At Casey Farm, I rest and take in the view of the Newport-Verrazano Bridge. I listen to some tunes by Amadou and Miriam on my iPod (music from Cassie). I am exhausted, cold, in pain. The bridge is beautiful and far enough to appear radiant in its nearness. A whole swath of the world, the ocean, the rough coast of Earth here. The music helps me, as I prop my back against the stone wall demarcating this farmland. Later on I will listen to some B.I.G., and that will help me push forward when all else has failed. Cars blip across over the bridge slow and steady.The cars are like soundless sprites on an LED display screen.

North Kingston: Incorporated 1674. The roadside puddles haven’t frozen all the way through, but they have a thin layer that looks like when you tap your finger on the scum of your hot chocolate. The town sits on a pretty bay. The graceful, weathered concrete bridge, built 1920s by McLaughlin in New London, CT. [see sketch]

A local paper has a headline: “What’s In the Lost and Found?”
An editorial, written by a liquor store proprietor, in The North East Independent (I’m reading it over breakfast at a quiet diner):

“If you want to see businesses that are totally quaint and unique to Wickford village
added to the already vacant spaces in Wickford, [i.e. if you want to get rid of these quaint businesses] and if you want to see several businesses located on Post Road [sic] go down the tubes and if you want to see the former Mancini’s Hardware remain vacant and so on, then by all means approve and allow the prepared big box development at Quonset, but don’t ask the few of us who remain to help you wash the blood off your hands!” (He’s talking about a Home Depot.)

Last night I passed the Krystal Penguin Inn, outside Westerly. The name is worth writing down. The inn was to my left. A sign in Wickford: “JAIME’S CAFÉ-DELI: NEW YORK SYSTEM”. I discover that ‘New York system’ means a hotdog with ‘the works’.
According to a tourist brochure, the state of Rhode Island is 37 miles across and 48 miles from north to south. Not so bad, I can make it.

I reflect on things which have become abstracted somehow into total hilarity as I have walked. At present these subjects are sublimely comic to me--paragons of the Platonic ideal of the comic.
--Luc Besson’s Joan of Arc
--the comic strip Shoe (they’re songbirds, they have these hard-bitten reportorial lives, they’re fantastically cynical about songbird politicians, etc) --(Part of walking is, you can look back and criticize the zany abstractions of your walk-addled mind. You can have delusions from walking. “Shoe”?? I don’t even see it anymore, at all.)

No comments: